Australian 4WD Monthly - Tips & Techniques: Snow Driving

Snow Driving

SNOW DRIVING

As with most 4WD disciplines, snow driving requires a fair degree of preparation before you even get to the slopes. Not only do you have to tune your mind to the driving conditions, but you need to consider taking a quantity of gear that you might never have thought of before.

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAT CALLINAN

THE GEAR

First of all, imagine you took a wrong turn in the snow. Then, you did the obvious and tried to do a U-turn and go back the way you came. Only problem is, in doing the U-turn, you dropped your back wheels into a deep gutter off the side of the road and nothing you can do will get you out.
It’s in these situations that you’ll want to have some really warm, really waterproof clothes. From boots through to gloves and beanies, if you don’t have this kind of gear, your recovery will not only be painful, it will also be dangerous. Frostbite isn’t just the domain of Antarctic explorers y’know.
Also be sure to pack a few emergency rations in your vehicle, as well as a few blankets. Water shouldn’t be a problem out there, as you can easily melt snow to water, but if you’re stuck for a few days or longer, you’ll be glad you packed those muesli bars.

So, now that you’ve got yourself protected, what about your fourby? Snow chains are essential in many of our Alpine areas. In Victoria, they’re stricter about it, and you can actually be fined for not carrying them in snow season. NSW Alpine areas are more forgiving, and carrying chains is usually essential for non-4WD vehicles only. But check before you go by calling the local police, because these laws can change without notice.

There are two main brands of snow chains on the Aussie market – Konig and Piranha. Chains generally come in a diamond or square pattern. Both types work well, but diamond-shaped chains are my personal preference. Generally, chains are fitted to either the front or the rear tyres. Your vehicle handbook should tell you which is the best for your 4WD.
Keep in mind that some vehicles lack clearance between the brake calliper and the wheel, so the fitment of chains can be impossible or dangerous. However, the chain manufacturer will be well aware of which vehicles can be problematic and advise you as such. The 17in-plus wheels can be a bugger, though…

BLACK ICE

One of the biggest problems in our Alpine areas is black ice. The ice forms when water or melted snow freezes on the road and fails to melt. It’s most common in shadowy areas of the road, like where trees overhang, or in cuttings, and the results can be devastating. The lack of traction here can send your 4WD literally skating uncontrollably along the road. Black ice is most common in the colder times of early morning and late afternoon, and it can be near impossible to spot.

So, what do you do when you hit the dreaded stuff? As with most emergencies, try not to panic and stay calm. Don’t make any drastic throttle or brake inputs, because they’ll only turn your 4WD into something akin to a Jamaican bobsled. You need to keep your eyes firmly pointed towards where you want to go, and turn your steering wheel towards where you want to head.

Hopefully (and there’s a degree of luck in this), your vehicle will eventually gain traction and correct its slide. Most patches of black ice are just that, patches, so if you simply remain pointed in the right direction, you should be fine.

If you think you’re entering danger areas for black ice, drop your speeds significantly. Limit your speed to 40–60km/h and you’ll have a much better chance of correcting a slide should you hit ice. Any faster and your surname had better be McRae.

THE WHITE STUFF

As with black ice, in snow you need to make all inputs smooth. Your braking, gear changes and acceleration should be smooth. When starting off, select second gear to avoid wheel spin.
And when you’re travelling downhill, use engine braking to slow your progress rather than just brakes. This way, you’re less likely to skid if you hit patches of ice.

Also, don’t forget to lower your tyre pressures. An increased footprint will give you greater traction, but of course, keep your speeds to a minimum. Driving in deep snow is a little like driving in mud and sand. It saps your momentum, but worse than that, obstacles that could normally be seen clearly are completely obscured. On the major highways, the tall yellow markers that sit high above the snow line are a good indicator of where the road runs. But on lesser tracks, it can be a real lottery.

If you’re following another vehicle, stick to the tracks they’ve made. This will have you riding on firm ground and missing any obstacles. If you’re leading the pack, take it very slowly. Speaking of packs, it’s good practice to travel in pairs in the High Country. And a good rule of thumb is to only drive in snow if it’s lower than hub height. Of course, if you can’t help but travel through deep snow, get out every once in a while to clear snow from underneath your bonnet.

If you come across a whiteout or blizzard, sit it out until it clears. Driving in a blizzard, especially for inexperienced Aussies, is a recipe for disaster. And besides, living in Australia, our blizzards don’t usually last for all that long.

STUFF YOU SHOULD KNOW IN THE SNOW

When diesel gets cold, it ‘waxes up’. When it does, it simply can’t move through the fuel system effectively. You have to wait until it warms up for it to work again. Or there’s another option. Buy Alpine diesel. Alpine diesel has a kind of anti-freeze mixed into it by the service station. Of course, it’s only available in the snowfield areas, and it’s a fine art to get the mix just right.

Only use reputable service stations, and don’t be afraid to ask questions as to how they mix theirs. You can also mix an additive into your fuel by the tankful yourself, but you’d only bother if you were a regular to the snowfields. Another handy snow tip is to leave your windscreen wipers off the windscreen overnight. Otherwise, with a little condensation they’ll stick to your screen.

Oh, and if in the morning your screen is iced over, don’t boil the kettle and pour it over your screen. This sort of fast temperature change could crack it. Be patient, start the engine, let it warm up and use the heater and demister to melt away the ice. One other precaution. Make sure you have a fresh batch of anti-freeze in your radiator. Water just won’t cut it in the snow.

FITTING SNOW CHAINS

There’s nothing pretty about fitting snow chains. It’s a dirty, cold job, but once done you’ll have oodles of traction and safety.

First up, grab a few lumps of 2x4 and space them the width of your tyres. Then lay the chains out, being careful to lay the centre of the chain over the centre of the wood. Then, drive your vehicle onto the blocks of wood.

Now connect the inner ring before fastening and tightening the outer ring. This can take some persuasion, but you tend to get better with practice. And speaking of practice, try it in your driveway before you head off. This way, you’ll ensure that the chains are a snug fit (and you know how to fit them!) before you get to the snow.

Once you’re satisfied the chains are locked on and tensioned, drive for about 500m before re-tensioning again.

While you’re driving with chains, keep your speeds down and pull over immediately if you hear any strange noises. And as soon as the snow is gone, remove your chains otherwise they’ll damage our roads.

Don’t leave home without:

1) Emergency rations and blankets
2) Waterproof clothing
3) Snow chains
4) Tyre gauge and compressor
5) Long-handled shovel
6) Snatch strap and rated shackles
7) Alpine diesel and anti-freeze coolant

Snow Driving

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