The first 26 of the 68km between Mittagong and Wombeyan Caves are sealed and pass through a rural landscape of grazing land and vineyards, and won’t take more than about 20 minutes.
Once the gravel starts, travel times get progressively slower, and you can expect to take a full hour and a half to cover the 68km, excluding any stops.
A unique feature just after the start of the gravel is a tunnel cut through a ridge of sandstone to accommodate the road. Built in 1899, the tunnel is still a major attraction on the trip to the caves.
The scenery along most of the gravel section is stunning, but the road is narrow and winding. Many of the bends are blind and signs warn motorists to sound their horns on the particularly tight corners.
You won’t strike a lot of traffic, but that’s just as well, because there are short stretches where passing is not an option, so be prepared to back up here and there.
You enter the Nattai National Park for the first time at what appears to be the top of the climb over the first ridge. Here you will find a spacious carpark and information board as well as some great views out over the 30,000ha Nattai Wilderness Area to the north.
As a bit of useless, miscellaneous information, this area was the first declared under the Wilderness Act 1987. Apart from protecting the rugged bush land, being a wilderness area also helps preserve the quality of Sydney’s drinking water.
The tight corners may be a problem, but a bigger hazard is the many rock falls that can leave washing machine-sized boulders in the middle of the road.
The worst section is the downhill run from the top of the range to the Wollondilly River, but expect to find rocks on the road until you get back out of the valley on the other side of the river.
We had to literally pick our way through a dozen minor falls and around one major lump we couldn’t have moved had we needed to.
At the bottom of the first descent, the fast-flowing Wollondilly River is worth a look. The river is crossed via a low-level concrete bridge surrounded by a thick stand of she-oaks.
Most of the land along this part of the river is privately owned, but access to a couple of camping areas can be arranged through Wollondilly River Station 500m or so up the road. There is plenty to do at the station, including fishing, canoeing, bushwalking and four-wheel driving. The facilities are basic but the tent sites are very comfortable, and there is a large, covered communal area should the weather turn dirty.
The climb back up from the river towards the caves is just as hairy as the run down, but once you reach the top of this second ridge, the landscape changes a bit as partially cleared land outside the park dominates the landscape.
The views here are a lot more open, but the narrow, winding road reminds you that you are still in pretty rugged country.
The commercial development at the Wombeyan Caves Reserve comes as a bit of a surprise after the totally undeveloped national park you will have spent the last hour or so winding through.
Wombeyan Creek winds its way through the long, narrow valley floor on which the ranger’s office, campground, amenities and cabins are located. Rows of tall poplars and willows line the sealed roads around the reserve, and they are a real spectacle when they colour in autumn.
The campsites don’t come much better either. They are nicely grassed and level, and most have tables, fireplaces and a tap. Right opposite the campground is a modern, fully enclosed kitchen complex, and the amenities block has hot showers and toilets. This has to be one of the best camping set-ups I have seen anywhere in Australia. To top it off, we were advised that the campground is never full.
The reserve is also a wildlife refuge where the native birds and animals know they are onto a good thing. Dozens of kangaroos call the campground home, and a large variety of bird-life mixes freely with campers.
Even the normally shy satin bowerbird seems comfortable being up close and personal with humans, even perching on your car if they think there could be a free feed around. Keep in mind, though, that the feeding of wild animals is not encouraged; it’s not good for their health and they can become a nuisance.
The nights can get pretty cold in this part of the Southern Highlands, so if you are not into camping, there are caravan sites and a range of other accommodation available, including a six-berth self-contained cottage, a series of cabins and eight-bed dormitories for groups.
The main reason for visiting the reserve is, of course, the caves. There are nine different caves that have been explored, but not all are open to the public. With one exception, the Fig Tree Cave, the caves can only be visited with a guide on one of the scheduled tours. The Fig Tree Cave is a self-guided cave you can explore at your own pace. It is beautifully laid out with permanent low-level lighting to guide you through, while sensor-operated prerecorded narratives discuss the many floodlit features as you enter each section.
You could easily spend a long weekend exploring those caves that are open. Entrance to Fig Tree Cave is via a token purchased at the kiosk.
If you are not in a hurry and are intent on seeing more than the white line along the Hume Freeway, the loop around Nattai National Park and the Wombeyan Caves is a very picturesque and interesting option, even if a couple of short sections may test your driving.
The area is also close enough to Sydney for a daytrip and is a brilliant spot if you want a couple of days camping in a bush setting with plenty to do.
Where:
Nattai National Park and the Wombeyan Caves Reserve are west of the Southern Highlands town of Mittagong. Mittagong is a bit over an hour south of Sydney just off the Hume Highway.
Access:
The area is best approached via the old Hume Highway that is also the main street of Mittagong. Head out of town for 6km, and just after you cross the freeway there is a well-signposted turn-off to the right (Tourist Route 13).
This is Wombeyan Caves Road, which will take you right through the national park, over the Wollondilly River and up to the caves. Without stops, expect the 68km from Mittagong to the caves to take you around 90 minutes.
Accommodation:
Wombeyan Caves Reserve
Good camping is available at Wombeyan Caves Reserve, where you can expect to pay around $7.50 per person per night or $18 for a family.
Powered sites are available for caravans from $20 per night, but you would probably have to bring the van in via Goulburn and Taralga.
Self-contained cabins in a variety of styles have rates starting at $133 for the first night and $68 for each additional night at peak times.
Groups are also catered for, with dormitory-style accommodation starting from about $50 per person per night.
Wollondilly River Station
Camping with basic facilities is available along the river about half an hour from the caves. You will need to call the caretaker to find out the rates, but as near as I could work out, you will probably get change from $2 per head.
Back in Town
If you choose to find accommodation back in Mittagong or Moss Vale, drop into the well-appointed Southern Highlands Tourism Centre in the main street of Mittagong.
Attractions:
Four-wheel driving, canoeing, bushwalking, photography, birdwatching, wine tasting and exploring the Wombeyan Caves are just a sample of what you can get up to in the Southern Highlands.
Supplies:
There is a kiosk at Wombeyan Caves with a few basic supplies available, but if you are planning to stay for a few days you probably should stock up in Mittagong or Goulburn.
Useful GPS Readings:
Start of unsealed road: 34 24’ 58"S 150 13’ 06"E
Tunnel: 34 20’ 39"S 150 12’ 37"E
Wollondilly Lookout: 34 20’ 20"S 150 12’ 01"E
Recommended Maps:
CMA 1:25,000 Topographical Mittagong 8929-2-S (very much out of date)
CMA 1:25,000 Topographical Harnworth 8929-3-S
CMA 1:25,000 Topographical Barrallier 8929-3-N
Tourism Southern Highlands map ‘The Southern Highlands’
Contacts and Information:
Southern Highlands Tourism, Ph: 1300 657 559
www.southern-highlands.com.au
Wombeyan Caves Visitors Centre, Ph: (02) 4843 5976
Email wombeyan@goulburn.net.au
Wollondilly River Station (Caretaker), Ph: (02) 4888 9239 |
